Stamp Paper Mache

I think everyone has made something out of paper mache at one point or another. Whether it was using a balloon as a mold to make a space helmet (Year 8 science project for myself) or making a bowl of some sort in primary school for Mother’s/Father’s/Keep-the-kids-busy-for-a-while-because-teacher-has-a-migraine Day, paper mache is a simple yet fun craft.

What I didn’t know (but now do thanks to Wikipedia) is that paper mache (French for ‘chewed paper’), has been used for all sorts of things. In addition to range of decorative objects and architectural design elements there have been some rather different uses. Paper mache was used to make boat hulls for small canoes in the days before fiberglass- the versatility and relative light weight nature of paper meant that the shape could be customised easily and were very competitive.
Paper mache was also useful for creating domes, particularly those for observatories. Because of the light weight of paper mache, it mean that the domes could be easily rotated and moved as needed so the telescope could point in any direction. And perhaps the most usual of all, the French used it to create sabots, the structure around bullets and artillery shells to keep the projectile stable in the barrel of the gun (or cannon) and to trap propellant gases, which increases the muzzle velocity of the projectile.

Why am I talking about the history of paper mache? Well because I get distracted by interesting facts easily. And I have a new stamp related craft tutorial for you all. Which, as you may have guess, involves using stamps to make paper mache objects.

For this project, I have used Discworld Cinderella stamps, mainly because I have quite a few spares of them sitting around in envelopes (five years of collecting does that!) But you could also use spare cancelled stamps (or new unused stamps if you are feeling rich!) or Cinderella stamps from the designer of your choice if you have enough of them.

How many do you need? Well that depends on how big a project you have in mind. For reasons of economy, I made two small objects, a plate and a bowl. However, the only real restriction you have is the number of stamps that you have. If you want to make a 100% stamp creation, I would say that you want a layer of four to five stamps as a minimum. You can also eke out your supply by using plain paper for the middle for strength and using the stamps as the outer layer for decoration. If you do this, I suggest you use acid free paper (to prevent the stamps from discolouring from acid leaking through over time) and pre cut or rip the paper into stamp sized pieces.

You will also need something to act as your mold. I used a pretty little plate I got on holiday years ago and the glass bowl from a scented oil burner for the bowl. You could use a vase, bowl, balloon or even Terry Pratchett's hat if you happen to have it handy!

Next step is to cover your mold with cling wrap (glad wrap, plastic wrap, or whatever you call it in your area). This has two purposes: to protect your object from any damage; and to make it easy to remove the paper mache when it’s done. Try to have as smooth as surface as possible on the side you will be sticking stamps to.

And you are ready to go! If you are using unused stamps then all you need is a damp sponge to moisten the glue on (or a very patient tongue). If you are using cancelled or ungummed stamps, you will need to use some glue- the cheapest method is to use flour glue. One part of flour to 2-4 parts boiling water (depending on how thick you want your glue). Sift the flour well and add gradually to boiling water on the stove for two to three minutes (it should thicken slightly). If you want to store the glue then it’s a good idea to add ½ teaspoon of teatree oil to prevent it from going mouldy. Alternatively, you can water down PVA glue.

If using real stamps you can extend your supply by using selvedges for the middle of your object since no one will ever see this bit!

Place the stamp onto the cling wrap covered mold. Repeat. And then do that some more. You should aim to evenly cover the mold with at least 3-4 layers. Once done, leave your work to dry. A quick note if you chose something like a very rounded bowl or a vase- don’t have your final layer done at this point. If making a vase or a bowl, you may need to cut your paper mache in order to get it off the mold. Use a craft knife to VERY CAREFULLY cut through the paper (it is also a good idea to not use an expensive fragile antique as your mold for this reason). Don’t panic though- once it is off, you can add another layer or two to your paper mache and this will hide the cut marks completely.

Bowl with mold removed- plastic still present

Plastic removed from paper mache.  The shiny effect is due to the stamp glue

Your work should hold its shape at this point

Once your work is done, gently use the cling wrap to pull it off your mold. The paper mache should be slightly flexible but hold its shape. If it doesn’t then you have not used enough layers- put your work back onto the mold and add a few more. Pull the glad wrap off your paper mache.

You may choose to then add stamps to the other side of your paper mache or you may like the stamp like feel of having a gummed and patterned side. If you think your work is feeling a little flexible or flimsy, then add some more stamps to strengthen the structure. You may also choose to trim the edge (fun idea- use scalloped scissors to give the edge a perforated feel), leave the edge rough, or fold the edge over and then add stamps to the other side. When you have finished, leave the work to dry.

While you could declare your work finished at this point, I highly recommend using a varnish of some sort to seal your work. This protects the piece from damage, particularly from damp and water. Remember, if you used new stamps the only thing holding your piece together is the water soluble glue. If you stuck this thing in water it would eventually disintegrate the same way a stamp comes of an envelope when soaked in water. Several thin layers are generally better than a single thick layer, or otherwise follow manufacturer’s instructions.

When complete, sit back and enjoy your stampy artwork.

The finished product- not the different edge effects that can be achieved